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Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.